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Connecting multiple sets of speakers to one amplifier (Primer)
This is ultimately
easy, but before explaining the process I feel it is necessary to
provide a warning. Multiple sets of speakers usually can not be
hooked directly to a standard audio amplifier without some sort of
impedance (see below for explanation) matching device. This is in reference to those persons whom
might want to run speakers in several rooms at the same time
(distributed audio). If several sets of speakers are run from one set
of speaker terminals the amplifier will usually overheat and shut
down, and may blow the output stage. 1 These remarks do not apply to PA style amplifiers with 25 or 70 volt outputs, which require special speakers with transformers.
(8 Pair Speaker Selector)
Remember it this way: only put one speaker per pair of terminals (usually red and black) on the amplifier. Do not try to use a surround amp to feed several rooms with one room on the center, one room on the rear surrounds etc. This is due to the way a surround receiver distributes the sound as you may end up with only the voice in one room and only the music in another! The correct hookup for a surround receiver puts surround sound in the main room and sound from the left and right main speakers is distributed. My recommendation for hooking up a surround receiver is as follows. Run the speaker selector from the front left and front right outputs on the amplifier. Hook your front left & right speakers to the first speaker switch on the speaker selector. You will need to rebalance your surround system by running the pink noise test as the speaker selector will decrease the output to the left and right speakers by a small amount. This allows running the main speakers & the other speakers connected to the speaker selector without one set being louder than the others. If your speaker selector has volume controls, you need to make sure when you use your surround system for movies the volume control is at the same setting it was when doing the pink noise test. You may hook the speaker selector to the 'b' speaker switch on the amplifier if speaker volume balance between your main left & right speakers and the rest of the speakers is not an issue. Another variation is amplifiers with a direct speaker output for zone 2, 3, etc. These are set up to drive 1 pair of speakers, and must be used with impedance matching if more pairs are to be used. The zone outputs allow a second (or third etc) source, for example CD in one room and radio in another. An impedance matching speaker selector provides multiple outputs from one input, and protects your amplifier from damage. Speaker selectors come with 4-12 outputs. As long as your amp has enough power, you can push as many sets of speakers as you want. Simply connect the speaker selector to your 'A' (or 'B') outputs and the rest of your speakers on the speaker selector. You can purchase speaker selectors with volume controls for each individual speaker. Another option is in wall impedance matching volume controls, which require no speaker selector. Most of these are set with jumpers at install time, providing the correct matching. If you want to run more pairs of speakers than the speaker selectors or volume controls are made for (usually 12 pairs max. depending on the hardware) you probably want a second amplifier to run the second set of volume controls (or speaker selector) from.
(Impedance Matching Volume Control) So, what is impedance and impedance matching? (Warning: semi technical material ahead :)
The music signal to your speakers is called alternating current (or AC), because it varies polarity and voltage. This is in comparison to a battery, for example which produces a steady, or DC current. You may picture current as the amount of water flowing in a pipe (the wire) and voltage as the water pressure. AC current can be imagined as a flow that reverses direction and DC as a steady flow in one direction. The analogy is not exact but is close enough to get a picture of what is happening. Standard house current in the US reverses direction (polarity) at an interval (or frequency) of 60 times per second, measures as 60 Hz (Hertz).
Your
speakers have a certain amount of resistance to current. Imagine the
resistance as a constriction in the pipe, limiting the flow.
They have a DC resistance, termed the voice coil resistance, and
resistance to AC is called impedance. Resistance and impedance
values are measured in Ohms. Impedance is a complex sum of dc
resistances, plus the resistance to various AC frequencies caused by
capacitance and inductance (normal properties of electrical and
electronic devices). It is usually specified for speakers as nominal
impedance, and is referenced to particular frequencies . However,
Just think of it as resistance to AC for practical purposes. This is
usually rated at either 8 or 4 Ohms. Most home amplifiers prefer an 8
ohm impedance. Each time another speaker is added in parallel the
impedance is reduced. Visualize several pipes connected together to
the same pump, obviously the flow from the pump increases (up to the
limit of the pump's capability). The amplifier is the pump. Two
8 ohm speakers reduce the impedance to 4 ohms, four 8 ohm speakers
reduce the impedance to 2 ohms, and so forth.
Copyright © 2006-2008 Seafawn Enterprises, LLC
Any
information on this page may be freely copied, as long as the link
below is included. Buy home theater speakers & accessories
Why does the amplifier output stage blow? This is due to the nature of a typical amplifier. It must first be clear that an amplifier does not actually make the input signal bigger. What it does is recreate a larger (higher current and voltage) copy of the original signal, and puts that out to the speakers. It makes this copy from the power supply voltage, which is derived from the AC current from the wall outlet. This voltage must be first converted to DC. If not done efficiently the amplifier will hum (because it doesn't know the words). The amplifier controls the power supply voltage by a sort of “valve” that controls the output voltage and current. These “valves” (transistors are usual, but may be IC's, vacuum tubes, or other devices) are controlled by the input signal. In response to the input signal, the amplifying device allows more or less current (and/or voltage) flow through it to the output in an exact (hopefully) replica of the input signal. In order to have the majority of speakers work well with an amplifier, it needs a low output impedance (see the text above for a discussion of impedance). If the output impedance is too high, the frequency response will vary with the impedance of the speakers. This means that some sounds will be accented and some diminished from the levels they should be, and this effect will be different with every different set of speakers. In practical terms this means that, with the most commonly used circuit design, when the transistor (or other device) is fully on, it needs to pass almost all the power supply current available through it. This is the tricky part. The current flow is determined largely by the impedance of the speakers connected. Most amplifiers are designed to work with 8 ohm speakers, and may work into 4 ohms reasonably well. Some so called “high current” amplifiers may work well into 1 ohm. In other words, the amplifiers are designed that when the output transistors are passing the full current and voltage they can take, they are working into an expected value of impedance. When the impedance (ac resistance) of the connected speakers get too low, more current is allowed to pass through the amplifying device than it can take. It either burns up, or blows a fuse, or burns up emitter resistors, or some other form of damage occurs. Fusing often does not react fast enough to save the circuit. So why not design all systems to work into low impedances? Without going too far into it, this can result in huge cost increases. For example, for theoretically ideal performance into most of today's speaker systems, an amp should double it's power for every halving of impedance. So for 100 watts into 8 ohms, it must put out 200 into 4 ohms, 400 into 2 ohms, and 800 into one ohm. Most decent amplifiers today have significantly less than .5 ohms output impedance, so as to perform well with speakers that may drop to low impedances at some frequencies. Our theoretical amp, if made to operate into a .5 ohm load would need to have the capability to put out 1600 watts per channel without damaging anything (in the amplifier!). As you can imagine the cost of a good quality amplifier with this kind of capability is substantial. Now think about this: The average user of this massive amp, with 8 ohm speakers, will only see an average output wattage of 100 watts rms. For most users this would price the amp out of reach. Some amps are built to this type of standard, for the reason that there are speakers that drop as low as one ohm that sound much better if driven by a very high current amplifier. One such example is the Krell Evolution One, which is a monoblock. This means you need two for stereo. They will only set you back about $25,000 dollars each. For those who might think I am making this up, use google to find prices on Krell monoblocks.
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